Blackjack
Tutorial Lesson #3: Counting Cards - The Basics |
Our aim with
this lesson, is to unwrap the veil of mystery which seems to
surround the concept of card counting. The
good thing is you don't have to be a genius to keep track of
all the cards in a six-deck shoe; you just have to know a few
card-counter secrets...!
The first "secret"
is, we don't memorize the cards in a deck. Instead, each card
is assigned a point-value and all we are really doing is adding
those point values together and then converting that information
into a usable form. Just what those point values are depends
upon which counting system a player decides to use. In this
school, I'll be teaching the "High / Low" or "Plus
/ Minus" system but if you choose to learn another one,
everything I'm going to teach still applies.
The other big "secret"
about card counting is how we do it at the Blackjack table.
Most people who have flirted with card counting can get a good
grasp of it at home, but once they hit all the distractions
of a casino their ability to keep track of the cards, play their
hand properly and get a bet into the circle on time gets impared.
Remember, it's a MUST for you to know the basic
strategy off by heart. Now you'll begin to see why it's necessary.
Pick a System
There are a lot of different
card-counting systems available, each has its own distint advantages
and disadvantages. We'll try to sort through the most popular
and help you choose one which is convenient for you. Probably
the most important factor in choosing a system is the type of
game you'll be playing most of the time. say for instance, if
you play mostly in the Reno/Tahoe area, you should learn a system
which performs well against single deck games. If you play in
Atlantic City, you'll want to learn a system which is powerful
in multi-deck games.
Another important factor when
selecting a system is the amount of time you spend playing Blackjack.
This is going to surprise you, a player who intends to spend
a lot of time at the tables should learn a very simple system.
Reason being, it does require some concentration and the simpler
the system, the easier it is to concentrate for longer periods
at a time. Then again, if you're going to play for a couple
of hours a week, a more intricant system might be more appropriatel
for you; since a difficult system is usually more powerful and
it will optimize the time you spend at the tables.
Now, some of you "Type
A's" out there are thinking that you'll spend a lot of
time at the tables and use a very powerful (and intricate) system
to get the most $$$ out of your play. The problem here is that
under those circumstances, mistakes begin to creep in and that
can cause you to lose your edge. The KISS principle applies:
"Keep It Simple, Stupid". If you really want to get
the most out of the game, do what I did, learn two counting
systems. I use one for multi-deck games and another one for
single-decks. It's not that hard and as we go through the lessons
on learning how to count, you'll see how the exercises I'll
teach you can implement such a strategy.
Card-counting systems are rated
by two primary factors: Betting Efficiency (BE) and Playing
Efficiency (PE). The anomaly of counting systems is that if
you increase the BE you are, for the most part, decreasing the
PE at the same time. This happens because of the unusual role
an Ace plays in the game. For betting purposes, the Ace is a
very powerful card; it's the primary component of a "natural"
which pays 3 to 2. But for playing a hand, the Ace is of somewhat
limited value. How many times have you doubled an 11 and got
an Ace? Now you have a total of 12...exciting, huh? Hit a 14,
get an Ace and you've got 15; nothing to shout about, is it?
Sure, it's great to double a 10 and get an Ace, but that's one
of the very few times when the Ace helps in the play of a hand.
How a counting system treats
the Ace determines a lot about the BE and PE of that system.
If you need a high Betting Efficiency -- like in a multi-deck
game -- then pick a system which counts the Ace as a "big"
card; if your game of choice is single-deck, then choose a system
which treats the Ace as a "neutral" card (and keep
track of the Aces in a "side count", a trick I'll
show you later.)
Multi-deck games are beaten
primarily by a large betting spread. Simply put, you bet small
when the house has the edge and much bigger when you have the
edge. A counting system with a high BE factor tells you when
to bet big. In a single-deck game, where the house knows a big
spread will win the $$$, a high PE lets you bet less and still
win. Don't forget; casinos know that their games are vulnerable
and they are on the lookout for people who can beat them. A
big betting spread is one tipoff they use to detect counters
and, depending upon where you play, being detected as a counter
may cause your expulsion ("barring") from the casino.
Let me stress that what I'm teaching you is entirely legal but
not everyone in the casino business feels as I do. There are
no laws against card-counting and you can be the best counter
in the world, but if the casinos won't let you play your skill
is wasted.
To help you decide on a count
to use, visit the series of articles called "Counting Systems"
on the Blackjack Page of GameMaster OnLine and look at the systems
which are reviewed there. As mentioned earlier, I will be talking
specifically about the "High / Low" count, but you
can learn any count by the methods I'll use. If you're going
to be at single-deck games, the Hi-Opt 1 count is probably the
best to begin with; go with the High / Low if multi-decks are
what you'll be playing. Since I will be teaching "true
count", either of those systems will work well, regardless
of where you play. Most "unbalanced" counts don't
require you to learn true count, but it's not a big deal, so
stick with one of the "balanced" counts. For those
who really want to get into it, go with Arnold Snyder's "Zen"
count, but you should buy his book, "Blackbelt in Blackjack"
to supplement what I'm teaching.
In
the next lesson I'll show you how to learn a counting
system with the following "point" values: |
2, 3, 4, 5, 6 = +1
7, 8, 9 = 0
10, J, Q, K, A = -1
This system has a Betting Efficiency of .97% and a Playing Efficiency
of .51%. The best system in the world would rate about .98%
BE and .70% PE, so what you'll be learning is easy to use for
long periods of time, is good at estimating your edge for betting
purposes and is just "OK" at playing the hand properly.
(But don't worry; it gets the $$$.) By the way, there's a third
rating for counting systems and that's Insurance Efficiency.
While basic strategy says to never take insurance, once the
proportion of tens in the remaining deck(s) reaches a certain
point, it becomes profitable to make the insurance bet. The
High / Low counting system has an Insurance Efficiency of .76,
which means that about 3/4 of the time you do take insurance
(as determined by the "true count"), it will be the
correct decision. But...we're getting ahead of ourselves here,
so copy your homework assignments and get outta here.
Home work
Continue working with your flashcards
at least a half-hour per day.
Do at least one "Basic
Strategy Reconstruction" each day and continue to work
on your speed.
Do at least one "Basic
Strategy Decision Excercise" each day and concentrate on
getting it done in under 2 minutes.
Work with the three "Card
Exercises" and concentrate on adding up your hand as you
play proper basic strategy.
Until next time...